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IN THIS ISSUE:
Perennials for Fall and Winter Interest Lakewinds - Bed & Breakfast & Garden!
 Does your Orchid need a Crackpot? Readers Q & A

 


Michael SchmahlFall is in the air! It seems that as soon as Labour Day arrives, so does the cooler weather. It's as if Mother Nature flips her calendar's August page and immediately begins turning off summer. After the incredibly hot and dry season we've endured , some cool, wet weather is just the relief our gardens need. Lawns across Niagara have already started to recover and green up - that's a good sign!

Darren and I had a terrific opportunity to be guests on Calling All Gardeners on HGTV this year. Calling All Gardeners is a live call-in television show that airs on Wednesday evenings across Canada. Darren appeared back in April demonstrating the use of garden ornaments and I discussed tropical-looking gardens in August (this episode will replay on September 26). Kathy Renwald, host of the program, was fantastic to work with and so were all the professionals behind the scenes.

Workshops at The Copper Leaf have been very popular again this year. Coming events on our calendar include: Jordan Pioneer Day and Perennial Sale on October 13, Christmas in Jordan on November 24 & 25, and a Magnolia Swag Workshop on December 8. We hope that you can join us for one of these special occasions.

What's In Leaf? Read on to find out which perennials add interest in the fall and winter from Anne. Darren outlines an impressive garden which he designed and our landscape company, Outdoor Images, installed two years ago. Emily introduces Crackpots for orchids and we'll learn the answer to a question on Hydrangeas in this issue's installment of Grow & Tell.

Have a great fall!

Michael Schmahl
Editor-In-Leaf


Perennials for Fall and Winter Interest
By Anne Marie Van Nest

Planning a garden for winter interest usually means looking through tree and shrub references for the most attractive fall foliage colour and winter form. Very little attention is paid to the plants at our feet. This group of overlooked plants are the perennials. Perennials can offer very interesting effects during the fall and winter as a result of their attractive seedheads. Some perennials have strong semi-woody stems that will stay upright through the entire winter, while others will give a good display through the fall and early winter before rain, wind and snow cause them to lean with casual artistry.

The showiest feature perennials offer through the snowy winter months is attractive seedheads. Wind blowing the tall stems of Eupatorium maculatum (Joe-Pye Weed) will make them sway like a living curtain. Another reason for leaving perennials standing in the fall is to see the contrast between the dark colours of many plant stems and the light colours of falling leaves and snow. The dark, woody seedpods of Iris sibirica (Siberian Iris) are very interesting when the three sectional capsule is surrounded by yellow birch leaves that have fallen around the clump. Leaving perennial seedheads intact after their flowers have finished blooming also is a benefit to wildlife. Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower) is excellent for attracting finches and sparrows to the garden that are looking for food. An additional ornamental benefit to leaving perennials unpruned once they have finished blooming is that many have attractive seedheads that can be dried for fall or winter bouquets.

The following perennials are recommended because they have attractive properties in the fall and winter.

Acanthus spinosus (Spiny Bear's Breeches) remains attractive long after the mauve-white flowers have fallen. The seedheads have the same nodding shape of the flowers. They are held high above the foliage and remain quite attractive into the fall. The spiny foliage may even remain semi-evergreen through the winter if they are in a mild enough location (with snow cover).

Many of the Achillea (Yarrow) have attractive upright, sturdy seedheads that look effective during the beginning of the winter. Since the fall is a time that Achillea often reblooms, many flowers are smaller and stems are not as sturdy as earlier in the season. Still some cultivars are excellent for fall and winter interest. Liatris spicata (Spike Gayfeather) also has attractive seedheads. Liatris has a fluffy, brown upright spiky structure that has good holding power into the winter.

The best time for Alchemilla mollis (Lady's Mantle) seed displays is just after blooming early in the summer. Heavy rains during the late summer and fall will often cause the weak seedheads to lie horizontally. This in itself can be attractive in the winter as the tan star-shaped seeds are held
above the leaves. One of the potential disadvantages of leaving the seedheads on these plants is that Lady's Mantle will self-seed extensively the following year. Coreopsis verticillata (Threadleaf Coreopsis) also has attractive seeds and will also self-seed if they are left on the plant over winter. This is a small price to pay for an attractive winter display. The pink blooms of Anemone hybrida (Japanese Anemone) seem to be everywhere lately. So many new and improved cultivars are finding their way to the garden centres that they are finding their way to many gardens. Japanese anemones are excellent for late season blooms (almost until the frost!). Some of the early blooms may even progress into seed heads that open to reveal attractive white cottony seeds.

Angelica is an interesting plant. The most commonly grown ornamental species is Angelica gigas. If this plant is allowed to flower and set seeds it will die and act like a biennial. If the plant is allowed to flower and the seeds removed before they mature, the plant acts like a short-lived perennial. If the plant is grown as a biennial, some of the seeds may germinate and start to grow the following year. If it is left to set seed, the resulting form is a very dramatic. It resembles a tall umbrella-like structure that could reach 2 metres in height.

Some perennials will actually live through the winter better if they are not pruned in the fall. Artemisia (Silver Sage) and Filipendula (Queen of the Prairie, Meadowsweet) are two of these plants. Do not prune these plants in the fall. Leave them through the winter and clean them up in the spring. Some of the taller blooming cultivars may "recline" during the winter but this is a small price to pay for increasing plant survivability.

Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed) has orange blooms that progress to small milkweed-shaped seedpods late in the summer and fall. These split open in the fall to release silky topped seeds. If seed-collecting admirers can be encouraged to leave the pods, these plants are quite attractive. This might be a lost cause since so many want this plant for their garden.

Fall and asters go together like tulips and spring. One plant that is an exceptional introduction is Aster frikartii 'Monch' (Monch's Frikart Aster). This is a shorter, earlier aster that has very little trouble with pests and diseases. Leaving the seedheads standing makes sense for several reasons. Chief among these reasons are for winter architectural effect, for feeding the birds and to increase its winter survivability. A white flowering aster-like plant called Boltonia asteroides 'Snowbank' (Bolton's Aster) and the tall, yellow blooms of Patrinia scabiosifolia can also be treated this way.

Many astilbe including Astilbe arendsii have attractive plume-like seed structures that create an excellent vertical accent effect through the winter. These plants also fare better if the foliage and seedhead is not pruned in the fall. Chelone lyonii (Turtlehead) is also a plant that should not be pruned in the fall. Do the clean up for both of these in the spring.

The foliage and flower stems of Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (Leadwort) will provide an attractive display through the fall and winter. The main reason for leaving this plant standing is to mark its location the next spring. Ceratostigma is unusually late to emerge and often waits until it is time to plant annuals before it peeks from the soil. Having some remnants of the plant still present means that that it will not be disturbed while it is dormant.

The tall seedheads of Cimicifuga racemosa (Bugbane), star-shaped seeds of Dictamnus albus (Gasplant) and the horizontal structures of Crocosmia (Montbretia) provide attractive interest if they are left standing during the winter.

Getting Dendranthema (Chrysanthemum) and Lobelia cardinalis (Cardinal Flower) to overwinter is often a tough task under the best of conditions. Leaving the entire plant standing in the fall will help with winter survivability. Even though the plants often have a sprawling way of growing, this does add interest when the snow flies. Letting cardinal flower self-seed increases the chance that some plants may overwinter (even if it is as seed).

Two architectural plants that add dramatic interest during the summer, fall and winter are Echinops ritro (Globe Thistle) and Eryngium planum (Flat Sea Holly). Both of these plants are known to self-seed if the seedheads are left on the plant. If self-seeding is not a problem in the garden leave these plants alone until the spring so that the round and spiny structures can be fully appreciated.

One of the unsung treasures of the perennial border are the Gaura lindheimeri cultivars (Butterfly Gaura). These plants have months of light airy dancing blooms and once the frost comes; they have attractive red tints on the flower stems in the late fall. These turn brown during the winter.

Getting Papaver orientale (Oriental Poppy) to have seed pods for winter interest is a battle. Most often the seed pods are harvested in the summer and fall for floral arrangements instead of leaving them on the plant. With such an attractive seed pod who can blame the early harvesters?

Silvery stems and seedheads are the reward during the winter for leaving Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage) standing until the spring. Since this plant likes to grow with a mass of divergent stems, the effect is quite interesting. Prune Russian sage to 15 cm (or lower if killed to the ground) in the spring.

Both the excessively tall Rudbeckia nitida 'Herbstsonne' (Black-eyed-Susan) and the shorter coneflower perennial staple called Rudbeckia fulgida 'Goldsturm' might fall over during the worst winter weather. Nonetheless the "coneflowers" are excellent winter interest plants because of their seed structures and the birds love to feast on the seeds.

One of the best winter interest perennials are the Hylotelephium 'Herbstfreude' AKA Sedum 'Autumn Joy'. The brown spent flowers hold up very well to rain, snow and ice (and look great during all of these conditions). Often the seedheads look so good that they are used in early spring flower arrangements. Don't touch them at all in the fall.

Several other perennials are attractive during the winter because of their evergreen foliage. These are Ajuga reptans cv. (Carpet bugleweed), Helleborus orientalis (Lenten Rose), Heuchera sanguinea (Coralbells), Lavandula angustifolia (English Lavender), Teucrium chamaedrys (Germander), and Thymus serpyllum (Mother-of-Thyme).


Anne Marie Van Nest is a graduate of the Niagara Parks Commission School of Horticulture, where today she is also an instructor.
Anne is a member of the Garden Writers Association of America and the garden columnist for The St. Catharines Standard.

 

Lakewinds - Bed & Breakfast & Garden!
By Darren Schmahl


Lakewinds Country ManorIn the picturesque village of Niagara-on-the-Lake, near the point where the mighty Niagara River pours into Lake Ontario, you will find an exceptional country manor called Lakewinds. Over the past few years, it has been rewarding to see the garden at this picturesque Victorian house evolve.

Working closely with proprietor Jane Locke, we developed a concept plan to suit the needs of both guests, as well as Jane and her family. The site had much character to build on, especially many mature trees. The development of the garden was divided into four phases, the vegetable garden, the perennial border, the pool area and the natural area.

Entrance to vegetable gardenThe vegetable garden came first. The layout is quite formal, consisting of straight walkways of pea gravel. The plantings, however, are much looser - a wonderful medley of veggies, herbs and fruit trees. Jane seeds many of her plants in her sun room. Ultimately, the produce and the fruits of her labour end up on the guest breakfast table.

As you exit the vegetable garden through a rose covered arbor, you reach the perennial border. It consists of mostly foliage plants including Acanthus, Hosta and Cardoon planted in masses. These bold combinations read well from the distant views of the house and the expansive lawn that stretches out toward the street.

Swimming Pool AreaThe pool area is especially popular with summer guests. Capped with Wiarton flagstone, its rustic appearance is both functional and attractive. Generous tumbled stone paved areas allow for ample chairs and loungers. Mixed plantings in raised planters surround and soften the area. Alternating squares of turf and flagstone lead down stone stairs to the vegetable garden.

A second set of stone stairs take you from the pool to a small rectangular sitting area in the wooded natural garden. It acts as a tranquil transition area and a favourite place for guests to drink wine. From here, a stepping stone pathway tiptoes to a small natural stone waterfall and pond. Covered with moss and planted with ferns and wildflowers, this peaceful and unexpected corner of the garden creates a sense of mystery. It provides a perfect little escape not only for the guests, but also for Jane who has transformed the old garden shed into a quiet retreat for reading.

For more pictures of Lakewinds Country Manor or for additional information visit www.lakewinds.niagara.com.

Editor's Note: Just a couple of weeks ago, Darren filmed this garden with The Gardener's Journal television show. Watch for this upcoming episode on HGTV in Canada and the United States.

Darren Schmahl graduated from the Niagara Parks School of Horticulture and has attended John Brookes' School of Garden Design in England. He has been designing gardens for over 15 years, including Lakewinds Country Manor and Main Street, Jordan Village.


Does your Orchid need a Crackpot?
By Emily Godfree


Bubbler RockOrchids catch many peoples' eyes, however their delicate nature sometimes deters them from trying one out in their own home. Orchids are not only for the expert gardener - by choosing a Phalaenopsis or Cattleya to start with, and understanding that they require some special cultural conditions, you will be rewarded with many years of exotic blooms.

Let me introduce you to the Crackpot. Crackpots are planters with many holes which allow for excellent drainage and provide exceptional air circulation. Orchids require good air circulation since in nature they are epiphytic, which means that they grow on tree branches and derive moisture and nutrients from the environment rather than soil. When you initially purchase your orchid, over-watering could become a tendency since the orchid does not have regular potting soil around its roots. The Crackpot can compensate for over-watering by allowing excess water to run through its holes and collect in the saucer beneath. Orchid medium, which is usually made up of coarse bark, "locks up" around the holes so that falling out isn't a problem either.

When selecting a pot size, choose one that allows the orchid roots to just touch the walls of the pot. Place the plant inside the pot and gently pack the growing medium under the crown of the plant. Firm the medium in well and thoroughly water both plant and pot. Usually within two years, the roots will grow over the sides of the pot and the medium will break down. This is the time to re-pot and this is how Crackpots get their name - the easiest way to remove the pot is to break it! When struck, Crackpots are designed to break into large, easy to handle shards, that prevent root damage. Obviously, you don't have to break the pot, especially if the orchid isn't rootbound and can be easily removed.

Crackpots come in many attractive colours (another reason you may not want to break them!) including terra cotta, light yellow, light blue, light green, forest green, and eggplant with matching saucers. They range in price from $3.95 for an unglazed 4" pot to $9.95 for an unglazed 7" pot. The glazed pots are also reasonably priced at $5.95 for a 4" pot to $19.95 for a 7" pot. Whether you're a beginner or expert, Crackpots can help make growing orchids easy and enjoyable. Come on in and give them a try today.

Emily Godfree is the radio host of 1220 CHSC's Saturday morning garden show and is a staff horticulturist at The Copper Leaf. Emily is just completing a season of filming with Mark Cullen's television show on HGTV.


James L. of St. Catharines, Ontario (Zone 6) writes: For the past few years I have been enjoying my neighbour's Hydrangeas. Unfortunately, I do not seem to have any luck with them. They appear healthy and green, but my problem is getting them to flower. Can you offer any suggestions please?

James, Hydrangeas are becoming more and more popular, due in part to their wonderful blooms. Culture and care of Hydrangeas are relatively easy - to start out you'll need to provide a location with full sun to partial shade, adequate water and rich soil. Your challenge in getting yours to bloom may be related to pruning.

It is very important to know what species you have because some Hydrangeas flower on old wood while others on new wood. The importance here is that you do not prune off the buds that are responsible for flowering. The arborescens and paniculata species bloom on new wood and this means that you can prune hard in fall or spring. However the macrophylla species, (Lace Cap or Florist's Hydrangea) as well as the quercifolia species (Oak Leaf) must not be pruned hard. It is advisable to remove the previous season's flower heads in the spring. These two species are more susceptible to winter damage, so be sure to remove any dead stems or tips in spring as well.

With a little well-timed pruning, you'll be rewarded with brilliant flowers in the latter half of the summer and fall. Good luck!


Please send your comments, suggestions & questions to gardeners@thecopperleaf.com.