Welcome to In Leaf, our on-line magazine dedicated to helping fellow gardeners. Our customer's quest for more information was the inspiration for this newsletter. With the changing of each season we'll publish a new issue, complete with a regular feature from newspaper columnist Anne Van Nest, guest articles from friends of The Copper Leaf like Ken Beattie of WTN's "Get Growing" and garden tips by staff horticulturists from our store and our landscape company, Outdoor Images. In this issue you'll find a design feature from Darren, advice on selecting garden gloves from Laura and an article on a subject that's of great interest to me, organic lawn care. We hope you enjoy In Leaf and that you find it useful.

'Botanically Correct' Gloves
By: Laura Yates

The 'Rose Warrior' glove is for the gardener with a rose garden or other prickly, thorny bushes. It is just like the 'Botanically Correct' glove, except the latex is thicker and covers almost the whole glove. The thick latex protects your hands from the thorns. At a price of $6.95 these gloves are easy to put on.

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Cool for Cats
By: Darren Schmahl, Project Designer

Located on the south shore of Lake Ontario in Niagara-on-the-Lake, this 'cottage' as fondly described by its owners, is surrounded by a fabulous and diverse garden.

Over the last couple of years, Ed and Lynda Kendall transformed two old cottage lots into their new lakeside home. The house is built of stone and cedar with copper trim. These natural elements lend themselves perfectly to the landscape and were incorporated as essential materials in making the garden. The design divided the space into different 'outdoor rooms', creating separate areas of interest linked by lawn and flagstone walkways.

Upon approaching the home, a cobblestone driveway, complete with moss-covered gaps, connects with the main entrance. A square-cut flagstone walkway leads to the front door, tunneling as it goes through a wisteria-draped pergola. Along the west side of the walk, a small courtyard enclosed by a low stone wall is a favorite place to sit at relax. Beyond this, a sunny mixed border boasts bold stands of ornamental grasses, giant masses of sedums and other rich combinations of perennial flower and foliage. Winter remains interesting as dried leaves, twigs and seed heads combine to form subtle compositions that dance in the frequent lake winds. Hundreds of minor bulbs and species tulips awaken early in spring to continue the cycle.

To the south, the property becomes a natural garden, including both native and exotic species that happily grow below pine, oak and maple trees. Here a random flagstone walkway passes a natural stone outcrop that bubbles with water twelve months of the year. The water feature was built with a well chosen stone picked out by the Kendalls, and sits in a bed of indigenous shoreline gravel. The meandering walkway appears to end at a secluded patio and fire pit, only to suddenly start up again, pass through a rhododendron garden and conclude at a hand-hewn stone bench.

On the lakeside of the house, the planting is deliberately minimal. Comprised mostly of lawn and framed by mature maples, the view to the lake is spectacular and makes the perfect backdrop to an inviting, cantilevered deck which juts out over the rocky shoreline.

Late last year, the Kendalls introduced a new 'room' to the garden. It is a large fenced in natural area of zoo-like proportion. It contains two brother Coon Cats, the only recognized breed of domestic cat in North America. This cat type originated as mixed breeds that escaped from early ships and settlements along the eastern seaboard and established themselves in the surrounding forests. They developed into a breed looking similar to a Tabi but with tufted ears and can get as large as 30 pounds! The cats love their new home which is connected to the basement of the main house by a tunnel, complete with skylights, that allows them to traverse freely inside and out without endangering the visiting bird populations.

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The Family Lawn
By: Michael Schmahl

The following article originally appeared in the Spring 1997 edition of Cognition magazine. With all the recent media coverage of the federal government's proposed ban on lawn chemicals, I thought that this was an ideal time to reprint it.

Today's society dictates that we must all have perfect teeth, the perfect body and a perfect lawn. However, not everyone subscribes to this ideology. A growing number of homeowners and businesses are interested in organic lawn care. With the addition of a child or pet, families often start asking more questions about the products being used on their lawn. Similarly, leading corporations are adopting "green" practices such as sustainable development and environmental stewardship. Whatever the motivation or reason may be, organic lawn care is a viable alternative to conventional spray programs.

To begin with, lawns should be carefully planned and designed prior to their establishment. Lawns are not unlike any other perennial planting. It is quite common for a homeowner to invest time learning about the optimum cultural requirements of trees and shrubs prior to planting, yet a lawn is usually denied this process. All too often, during the construction phase of residential subdivisions or commercial developments, topsoil is stripped as heavy equipment drives through, followed by the low-bidding contractor rolling out sod. No wonder modern day lawns develop a host of problems and require medication in order to survive.

When it comes to lawn establishment, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. A thorough assessment of existing site conditions will indicate such factors as exposure, air circulation and competition with other landscape components. This evaluation will ultimately determine the suitability of turf and the appropriate selection of grass varieties. Utilizing other groundcovers to minimize lawn areas is one way to reduce maintenance requirements as well as the high inputs that turf requires. Consideration should be given to other plant materials that offer ornamental features such as flowers, berries and evergreen foliage. For example, Pachysandra terminalis and Vinca minor are better choices than grass in shady locations.

Organic lawn care doesn't mean just saying "NO" to chemicals. It is a complete management program that includes proper fertilizing, mowing, watering, and thatch control. The real key to chemical-free gardening is good horticultural practices, while placing an emphasis on building and sustaining healthy soil.

"A healthy soil grows healthy plants" is the fundamental principle of the organic approach. Soil is often the most neglected component of the turf ecosystem, since the color of green is usually the quality standard by which lawns are judged. Lawns are dependant on the soil to provide a nutritionally balanced environment from which to grow. A healthy soil is supported by a tremendous variety of beneficial microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi. These microorganisms, or microbes, enhance the soil building process by decomposing organic matter and creating humus. Humus is the dark, stable material that is the "glue" that holds soil aggregates which provide excellent nutrient retention, ideal drainage and good soil structure.

Organic fertilizers stimulate soil microbes by providing a constant supply of organic matter. As a result, these fertilizers feed the grassplant as well as the soil. Organic fertilizers generally require less energy in their manufacture when compared to their conventional counterparts and at the same time, reuse and recycle materials. For example, North Country Organics manufactures fertilizers that utilize cocoa meal, a waste product from the Hershey chocolate factory in Pennsylvania. Cocoa meal not only adds a pleasant aroma to the fertilizer, it is a source of nitrogen. Other fertilizer ingredients include Chilean nitrate as a nitrogen source, black rock phosphate for phosphorus and Jersey greensand as a source of potassium. A wide range of slow release natural/organic products are commercially available today. Synthetic fertilizers are typically made slow release by the addition of a sulphur coating, whereas organic fertilizers are slow release simply because naturally derived materials breakdown gradually and continuously, much like Mother Nature herself.

Mowing is the most commonly practiced lawn care operation. For the home lawn an environmentally friendly rule of thumb is to simply mow high. A taller mowing height accomplishes several important functions. Since roots grow in proportion to top growth, a lawn maintained at a height of three inches will have a deeper root system than that of a closely clipped turf. This deep, dense root system will require more grubs per square foot to show signs of damage than the short cropped lawn. Just by raising the height of cut, the lawn's threshold level for grub attack is increased. Also, taller grasses have more leaf blade surface area which maximizes photosynthesis and produces a healthier plant. Tall grass will shade the soil surface and consequently reduce weed seed germination. Research has proven that a one inch increase in mowing height results in a 10 per cent reduction in weed populations.

Many municipal landfills today (hopefully by now - all municipalities) do not accept grass clippings or garden debris. These materials are completely recyclable and have no business in a landfill. Grass clippings represent free fertilizer and should be left on the lawn. However, through life's many demands, the lawn may not always be cut on time. Clippings that are excessive and physically block sunlight from reaching the turf, should be raked up and ideally composted. Mulching mowers are designed to cut grass into very fine clippings and effectively incorporate them back into the turf. Over the course of a full growing season, grass clippings can offer the lawn the equivalent of one fertilizer application.

The apparently simple task of watering is often performed incorrectly. A guiding principle governing the frequency of watering is to water deeply and infrequently. The soil should be allowed to dry out through much of the depth of the rootzone. This dry down is a 'workout' for the grassplant which stimulates deeper root penetration. As roots search for moisture their system expands into a dense network that increases drought resistance while enabling the grassplant to tap into a broader nutrient base. It's time to water when the first symptoms of wilt appear. When Kentucky bluegrass wilts it takes on a darker color as leaf blades fold inward in an attempt to conserve moisture and reduce desiccation.

Early morning is the best time to water the lawn. Winds are usually calmer in the morning hours and temperatures cooler (ask any golfer). Early morning watering represents a form of disease prevention. Spores to a fungus are like seeds to a plant - both require nutrients and moisture in order to grow. This is precisely what dew represents for developing diseases. Morning waterings rinse dew off the leaf blades, helping to discourage disease. Watering during the heat of the day can be wasteful due to losses from evaporation. Watering late in the day or in the evening can promote disease incidence since many pathogens require an excess of six hours of leaf blade wetness in order to set up.

When it comes to lawn weeds, beauty truly is in the eye of the beholder. Weeds are generally herbs or wildflowers and many have healing or medicinal qualities which have benefitted mankind throughout the ages. It is important to realize that even under ideal conditions some weeds will grow. A weed is simply a misplaced plant and represents nature's way of covering and protecting soil from erosion.

Weeds are an indication of soil or maintenance problems and not the problems themselves. Natural weed control addresses the true cause of the concern rather than merely treating the symptom. Crabgrass is a weed that is best prevented by good horticultural practices and by understanding its life cycle. Crabgrass is an annual and sets seed in the fall. The following season, these seeds need light in order to germinate. Given these two facts, a preventive maintenance plan is the best control strategy. Renovating or overseeding during the fall, at a time when crabgrass plants are declining, will thicken the lawn and give it the competitive advantage. Maintaining a tall mowing height during the following growing season will reduce sunlight from reaching any awaiting seeds. Spraying for crabgrass may provide temporary relief, but if no attempt is made to correct the underlying conditions that favor this weed, it will return.

Healthy lawns are more resilient and resistant to attack by pests and disease and will tolerate some degree of insect damage. Endophytes are types of beneficial fungi that live within the grassplant. Unlike detrimental and disease causing fungi, endophytes do not cause any harm to turfgrasses. They benefit lawns by discouraging and repelling surface feeding insects such as chinch bugs, bluegrass billbugs and sod webworms. When using grass seed be sure to request endophytically enhanced varieties. Moreover, an organic lawn develops an inherent protection mechanism of checks and balances. By eliminating the use of lawn chemicals, natural pest control is encouraged through the conservation of beneficial insects, such as predators like big-eyed bugs and rove beetles.

Thatch is a major contributing factor in the occurrence of insects and disease. It is a layer of partially decomposed materials found just above the soil surface. Thatch is an ideal environment for insects to harbor and diseases to spread. In addition, thatch impedes the movement of water and fertilizer into the rootzone. Aeration is the process of mechanically removing small soil cores and depositing them on the lawn. The cores, containing soil microbes, help to speed up thatch degradation while relieving compaction and allowing more oxygen and water to reach the rootzone. Natural lawn care does not promote excessive thatch build-up, further reducing the likelihood of disease or insect imbalances.

Hopefully the aforementioned practices will help shatter the myth that an organic lawn is a neglected lawn. Good luck with your lawn this season and remember that it's not the end of the world if a few weeds visit, or if chinch bugs help themselves to a section of your lawn. Keep on smiling - even if your teeth aren't absolutely perfect.

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Each spring my English lavender looks half dead. What should I do with it?

English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is a favourite and excellent performing perennial. It requires plenty of sunshine and well-drained soil. In colder climates (to zone 5) grow the hardier cultivars including 'Munstead', 'Hidcote' and a good short selection called 'Blue Cushion'. There is also a tall flowering lavandin type named 'Grosso' (Lavandula x intermedia) that is not as easily found but is very hardy (also zone 5). Pruning is essential to maximize the plants aesthetics. On a mild winter, only minimal die-back may occur. In this case simply prune back all dead stems plus a few inches of live wood. On a severe winter with lots of winter-kill, cut plants back hard, to 3 or 4 inches to stimulate lots of basal growth and re-establish a full plant. If the plants do not fill out well, a second pruning just above the new growth will hopefully initiate good basal growth. Do not prune lavender to the ground as this will almost certainly kill it!

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