The days are getting shorter and shorter - fall is here and so is the autumn edition of In Leaf. Remember that now is the time to think spring bulbs and please note that there is still room in The Copper Leaf's Bulb Lecture on September 30 with Brian Coveney of Outdoor Images.

Fall gardening tasks in the perennial garden predominantly focus on preparing the area for the upcoming winter. Plant survival and sanitation are the most important considerations for gardeners during this time. The aesthetics of creating a neat and tidy garden should be a lesser priority because the first priorities often add up to a lengthy list of tasks that must be done before winter sets in for good.

One of the biggest dilemmas facing gardeners in the fall is the decision of how much cleaning up and cutting back should be done in the perennial garden. Many decisions must be made about which perennials should be cut down and which ones are left standing. A perennial border that is totally free of leaves and plant stalks is a forlorn sight. Many believe that this amount of meticulous pruning and cleaning is not necessary and may lead to a reduction in survival ability for some plants. Removing every last seed-head also will not attract wildlife to the garden. Echinacea (purple cone flower), Rudbeckia (black-eyed susan) and Heliopsis (false sunflower) are just a few of the perennials with seeds that are food for gold finches, chickadees, juncos and other birds. It is now more acceptable to leave some plants standing and leaves tucked around others for protection. The plants that are left "au natural" can be cleaned up in the spring. Before making the decision on whether a plant needs attention in the spring or fall, take several factors into consideration.

Most herbaceous perennials like hostas, many perennial geraniums and Coreopsis, that will turn into a soggy, mushy mess when frost hits, should be pruned down before this time. They are disgusting to clean up after this point. Many perennials that keep their foliage intact or have semi-evergreen qualities can be lightly pruned if needed. These plants are attractive poking out of the snow. Bergenia, Ajuga (carpet bugleweed), Iberis (edging candytuft), Stachys (lamb's ears), Arabis (rock cress), Tradescantia (spiderwort), and Thymus (thyme) are examples of plants that are visually attractive during the winter. Other plants that are more woody in form might also be candidates to be left unpruned. Buddleia (butterfly bush), Rodgersia, Aruncus (goatsbeard) and Filipendula (meadowsweet) all can be pruned in the spring once new grow starts. Any asters, chrysanthemums, Lobelia, and questionably hardy perennials should be left standing in the fall so that their stems will collect snow for added insulation and protection. Another group that can be left standing and unpruned are plants that have an interesting seed or branching structure which will be attractive in the winter. Many taller ornamental grasses and ferns fit into this category. The silvery stems of Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian sage) are also attractive in the winter.

Plants that emerge late in the spring should be left unpruned in the fall. These might inadvertently be disturbed if their stems did not mark their location. Two examples are Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (blue leadwort) and Hibiscus moscheutos (rose mallow) which stay dormant longer than other perennials in the spring.

Some perennials are a nuisance because they self-seed everywhere. Unless the garden is an untamed wilderness, these plants should be pruned or deadheaded. Melissa officinalis (lemon balm), Coreopsis grandiflora (large flowered coreopsis), Aquilegia (columbine), Valeriana officinalis (common valerian), and Phlox paniculata (garden phlox) are examples of plants that gardeners might choose to deadhead to avoid the problems of self-sowing.

Finally, any plants that will potentially harbour diseases pathogens or insects should be cleaned up this fall. This will reduce the number of problems that will overwinter and re-infect plants the following year. Hollyhocks that are loaded with rust spores and Monarda (beebalm) with powdery mildew are prime candidates to clean up this fall.

Leave the fall pruning task as long as possible. Delaying this pruning until the first frost has stopped plant growth is important. After the first frost, most of the plant functions have stopped and no new growth will occur as a result of any pruning. When pruning, try to leave 5-7 cm of old stem standing. Pruning too close to the ground or too close to the crown may damage or weaken the plant. Leaving a short stem still in place when pruning will encourage new growth in this area next spring. Herbaceous plants are an exception to this rule. They are pruned just before the first frost and are pruned close to the soil level.

An important task in the fall is to prepare for the eventuality of mice or vole families living in the perennial garden. Many low growing evergreen perennials are the ideal habitat for these creatures to spend the winter and cause significant destruction by severing or girdling stems. If you suspect that mice or voles will be a problem that will lead to intolerable damage, the placement of bait will be necessary. Mice bait placed in soup cans can be tucked into their favourite habitats under low conifers, among ornamental grasses, or in low-growing evergreen perennials and groundcovers. Pinch the middle of the can so that only mice can access the bait and not other small animals such as chipmunks.

Another task for perennial gardeners this fall is add mulch to the bed. A mulch of compost adds nutrients and organic material to the existing soil. This mild fertilizer is very appropriate for most perennials. Just avoid the potential for rot to happen when mulch is placed too close around plants or covering their crown. Keep the mulch a few inches (5 cm) from the plants.

Perennials are storing reserves of water this fall in order to help get through the winter. Monitor the amount of water in the soil throughout the fall to ensure that sufficient quantities are present. Moist soil is the best, while dry or soggy soil conditions will cause damage to some plants. Perennials will fare better if they are fully stocked with water going into the winter.

Many gardeners are anxious to renovate perennial gardens in the fall or at least to do some quick division. Resist the urge to divide or move plants in the fall. At this time, perennials will not have ample opportunity to become established before winter arrives. In addition, the success rates will be significantly higher if this task is done in the early spring.

A good task to accomplish in the fall is to reflect on the previous season. Evaluate the performance of your perennial garden and make notes of which plants to remove, move or divide next spring. A quick sketch or photo will be invaluable instead of relying on memories.

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Gardeners and "gardeners-to-be" are among the easiest of all types of people to buy gifts for. As a recipient of a great many garden gifts, I will share some of the finer ideas that have come my way over the years.

The children had been caning the raspberries in late summer and used the resulting canes rather inventively. For those of you who are not familiar with the verb "caning"... it simply refers to the function of removing the older, brittle raspberry canes to afford younger, more vigorous growth additional space. The children carefully removed all of the leaves from the brittle canes and cut the stems into fairly equal lengths of approximately 25 cm. They proceeded to bundle eight or ten of these sticks with a dried sprig of Rosemary or Tarragon using great amounts of raffia. A little ribbon was attached with a hand made card to explain the proper procedure for using my new "fire starters". One of the prototypic bundles appeared to have candle wax drippings affixed to the ribbons somewhat resembling sealing wax. The wax, I thought, might even help light the wettest of firewood that usually found its way to my fireplace. The Rosemary or Tarragon sprigs, once alight, smelled wonderfully and reminded me of days in the herb garden. A person could quite easily add their own special blend of dried herbs to create a special scent when the bundles are thrown into the fireplace. A deviation from using raspberry canes is to utilize pine cones. If this is your choice, I suggest that you increase the amount of wax that is used and add a strong smelling herb such as Artemisia (Wormwood) or a dried Mint. Craft shops should be able to supply you with beeswax or if you are stuck, melt a candle and allow the drippings to fall artfully over the project. This is a great craft for the children, of course with your supervision, to make for grandparents, teachers or special family friends.

Rosemary is a grand and versatile plant. The particular cultivar that I have the best success with is one called "Arp". The stems are quite sturdy and the amount of growth is remarkable; some seasons reaching over 30 cm in height. This makes this herb an ideal gift for the gardener who cooks. If you can bear it, clip the longest stems of your Rosemary and remove all the leaves and smaller side branches. What you want to be left with is a "skewer" of Rosemary.... and that is exactly what the gift is. Leave the bark or rough skin of the plant intact and sharpen one end to a fine point. Bundle the skewers in attractive tissue paper, parchment paper or individually wrap them. Tie them up with the gardener's "duct tape" ...raffia ... and voila, a great gift for the "chef du jardin". The skewers are excellent for lamb kebabs, so why not include your favorite recipe? The entire collection of skewers, recipe and raffia can be neatly held together with a collectable napkin ring with the remaining napkin rings wrapped separately. The leaves of the Rosemary that you removed can be placed into a muslin bag and used in a kitchen pot pourri. Cloves and Cardamon are among my favorite scents to add with rosemary... but it is just fine on its own. Sachets can be whipped up in a matter of moments and make excellent host(ess) gifts. I like to include a little history, a verse or something that is unusual about the plant that is used in the sachet on the accompanying card. Dress up the gift sachet with bright, festive adornments and always present it with both hands to the host(ess).

Tarragon, that almost weed-like perennial we love to hate in our gardens, comes in handy this time of the year. The wood, and I mean wood, of the French Tarragon is easily bent into a wreath shape. Combine some vines of the Virginia Creeper if you have some or grape vine are more traditional. A herb wreath can be just as creative as you want it to be. If you happen to have grown Hops (Humulus lupulus) in the garden this year... the seed heads make a wonderful accouterment to a seasonal wreath. Plaiting or braiding natural stalks is always an attention getter on a wreath. Woven Lavender stems and flowers are somewhat traditional but nevertheless, well worth the effort. Little sprigs or bundles of Lavender can be attached to the wreath with a note to instruct the recipient to remove and place the bundles in various locales around the house. Some say that placed under your pillow will aid sleeping while others place Lavender bundles in their "dainty" drawers. The wreath can be loaded with attractive little Lavender bundles each with its own purpose... once the wreath has been denuded of sachets, it can be hung outdoors. There is nothing finer in my mind to see a homemade wreath festooned with a crisp hoar frost.

Finally, if all else fails and your brain is just not very creative these days, seed packets bundled together in a theme can be very fine. Consider herbs such as Camomile, Feverfew, St. John's Wort and perhaps Evening Primrose (all yellow in color) and package them in yellow tissue, yellow ribbons and sketch a "sunshine herb garden" accented with yellow. All in a theme and with plants that will help the recipient feel better too. Little clay pots or a smashing container that you've found at a flea market stuffed with seed packets, a bag of soil, a wee watering can and hand made labels make a super last moment gift for anyone with a window.

I hope that I have stimulated some creative juices to flow for you this season. If not, well, use any of these ideas for the holiday season... they are tried and true... and won't your friends think you're creative!

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For two weeks this past August, The Copper Leaf Garden Store was host to a hands-on workshop with British garden designer John Brookes. I have taken this opportunity to summarize in my own words, a few key points taken from lectures by the creator of the Room Outside himself.

Before you begin to design, you will need to gather information. The technical requirements are straight forward: property dimensions, detailed measurements, north orientation, utility locations, style and colour of the home, etc, etc. At this time one important thing to consider is the context of the site itself - what is the essence of the place? For instance, if you live in Niagara, what is special to it and can some of this be expressed in your landscape? If you're designing in modern day suburbia, where this essence gets muddled with rows of houses and few mature trees, examine the surrounding countryside and try to re-establish this sense of connectedness.

You also need to know the people you are designing for. What do they do, how will they use the garden, what is the budget like, and how much time/skill will they have to maintain their property? What is their style? Look at how they decorate the inside of their home as this can be very telling of what you might do (or not do) for them outside. If you're designing for yourself you may, like most, find it more difficult than doing it for others. Always remember the simple line used by the late American landscape architect Thomas Church - Gardens are for people!

Now that all things have been considered, it is time to begin to design - conceptually! If you were about to reach for your encyclopaedia of perennial plants - think again! Plants come a distant second in the world of good design and will not enter into the picture until much later. Laying a grid of trace overtop of a scaled plan of the property, you can begin to layout the space. Think loosely and use a relaxed freehand with thick pencil lead. Mass, proportion, pattern and symmetry/asymmetry must all be respected. This stage requires practice to master but is a vital, yet fun part of the process. It is explained in detail in John's Garden Design Workbook (ISBN 0-929050-38-X), a must for anyone wanting to learn more about garden design.

Once you have the concept plan you must begin to think dimensionally. On paper your plan is only two dimensional. In reality you have to make it work in the third dimension. You must incorporate elevation changes, walls, stairs, fences, etc. and finally plants. Plants are an essential part of the mix as one begins to place trees for shade and/or screening. Trees and shrubs can grow quickly and this is another important consideration. This element of time that we work with is actually the fourth dimension and is unique to the world of garden design.

Lastly, develop a strong planting plan - now you can almost reach for your encyclopaedia! First, take an organized approach to selecting plants. John Brookes likes to divide his plantings into five categories; specials, skeletons, decoratives, pretties and infill. Think in terms of layers of planting, starting big and finishing with the smallest. Be careful of creating the plant collector's garden - too many single specimens gets too busy and unsettling to the eye. Use masses of plants which are good performers for their location. In general, choose them for their foliage which is what you see most of the time, think of flowers as a bonus.

Strive to find a harmony between creativity and practicality. A good designer designs gardens well. A good horticulturist maintains gardens well. If you understand the principles of design and are knowledgeable in horticulture you possess the fundamental tools for creating successful gardens.

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Try out this great Gardening Tote! We use one at The Copper Leaf everyday in our gardens. It is fabulous for spaces where our wheel barrow won't fit. The durable canvas is strong to hold larger loads while still being light and easy to carry. It's designed to stand upright with a large open top, making it easy for those of us with poor aim. On each side there is a strap handle for lifting and transporting. For storage, it can be rolled up and secured with the velcro straps attached to its side. Tucked away in your gardening shed, it will take up minimal space.

The Gardening Tote comes in two sizes. The smaller size is excellent to use when weeding and deadheading. The larger size can be used for big loads of leaves or prunings.

The Gardening Tote is definitely one of my handiest garden tools.

Small Tote ..... $22.95
Large Tote ..... $32.95

Is there a sad and tired looking pair of gardening shoes hiding in your closet? Most avid gardeners have a special pair of worn in and grass stained shoes that are probably either falling apart or just a mess to look at. It's an inevitable fact that when you work in the garden, you get dirty - especially your feet. Here at The Copper Leaf, we carry a gardening shoe that is perfect for every gardener. The Benesto gardening clog comes in four different two-toned styles: green/grey, red/grey, blue/yellow and yellow/blue. They are also available in a wide variety of mens and ladies sizes. These clogs are made of rubber and are extremely durable. The removable insole allows for easy cleaning, whether it be a blast from the hose or a soak in the rain. These shoes are also very comfortable. They are light weight and allow the foot to breathe. The insole is shaped to fit the foot better than most shoes and the soles are equipped with anti-slip grips. As someone who loves gardening and owns a pair of Benesto gardening clogs, I would recommend them to anyone. I have no need to hide these gardening shoes!

Benesto Gardening Clogs ..... $29.95

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