Winter is here, but don't despair! For some of us, the "off season" provides much needed rest from the rigors of the growing season. For others, winter offers a chance to reflect on the previous year's garden and plan ahead for the next. Now is the perfect opportunity to catch up on the garden books and magazines that we just haven't had time for. Many of our customers (myself included) rely on forced blooms, especially paperwhites, to help bring spring a little closer.

In this issue of In Leaf: Anne recommends that we "think spring" by looking indoors to African Violets; our guest gardener, Michael Pascoe, shares the winter merits of his favorite plant; Darren offers tips on keeping busy outdoors and Laura profiles a feeder for our feathered friends. I think you'll agree that there is much to do during this so-called "down time".

Now may not be the time to hear that someone other than yourself is heading down to sunny Florida, but I'm anxious to share an extraordinary opportunity. I have accepted an offer from Walt Disney World, in Orlando, to participate as an advanced horticultural intern. Beginning on January 8, 2001 I'll be helping to maintain the "magic" of the gardens within Disney's theme parks and resorts. Watch for our next issue for an update from "the happiest place on earth".

Sincerely,

Michael Schmahl
Editor-In-Leaf

P.S. The Copper Leaf will be exhibiting at Canada's premiere garden show, Canada Blooms. Visit us at booth #421 from March 14 through 18, 2001

Window Sill Gardening with African Violets

The benefits of growing African violets and other gesneriad family members are numerous. They reward indoor gardeners with the most exquisitely delicate blooms and are some of the easiest plants to grow. The diversity of the gesneriad plant family is exciting for anyone who wants to try to grow plants that are beyond the norm. This group of plants deserves a look for anyone who has not had the pleasure.

African violets and members of the gesneriad family such as the gloxinias, streptocarpos, and lipstick plants will thrive in conditions that are easy to achieve in most homes once some basic environmental conditions are addressed. Window sill gardening is not free of challenges, but these are not insurmountable and overcoming them makes the rewards that much nicer. One of these challenges is dealing with light levels that vary depending on the window orientation and time of year. Indoor gardeners may have to use a compromised window for plant growth that is not the ideal situation. Supplemental (artificial) light may be the answer to this problem. Another challenge is the temperature of the growing area. The best light might be up against the window which is also the coldest location. Gesneriads are sensitive to cold and hot temperatures that are beyond a comfortable range. Indoor environments during the winter also have the challenge of low humidity levels. This is one of the easier challenges to overcome by using a humidifier.

Normal home temperatures that are comfortable for people are well suited for gesneriads. During the daytime, temperatures should be between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius for most of these plants. A five degree drop in night time temperatures is ideal and may even encourage blooming. It is critical for gesneriads to avoid excessively hot or cold drafts from an open door, fireplace or furnace vent. Generally, a comfortable environment for humans will be suitable for these plants.

Most gesneriads are from tropical parts of the world, although there are some semi-hardy members such as Ramonda which is from the high altitude mountainous regions of Asia, Europe, and South America. The most common member of the gesneriad group is the African violet (Saintpaulia ionantha) which is from the Tanzania and Kenya region of east Africa. African violets in their native habitat grow on the banks of streams or as epiphytes on trees. About 2,000 cultivars in white, pink, red, blue, violet, cream and yellow colours have been developed as a popular indoor plant. Many advancements have been made to the original plant found in Tanzania which was a light to dark blue colour. Other gesneriad family members are the trailing lipstick plants (Aeschynanthus species) which are epiphytes from the sub-tropical forests of the Himalayas, south China, Malaysia, Indonesia, and New Guinea. From the tropical rainforest of the "New World" in Brazil come the goldfish plant (Nematanthus) and gloxinias (Sinningia species). Gloxinias are gesneriads that have a single fleshy tuber. When the dry or cold season arrives in their native environment, the foliage dies down but the tuber remains alive. When weather returns that is more suitable for growth, the plant starts to grow from the energy reserves in the tuber. An interesting plant that is a tuberous gesneriad is the cupid's bower or hot water plant (Achimenes). This easy-to-grow plant is dormant during the winter and springs to life in the spring.

African violets, the most famous gesneriad family member, were discovered by Baron Walter Von Saint-Paul in 1892 in Tanzania. Upon its arrival to Europe it received the botanical name of Saintpaulia ionantha. The genus name obviously commemorating its discoverer, but the species name is from the Greek language meaning "having flowers like the violet's". This gave rise to the common name of African violet which give the impression that this plant is a true violet. African violets are not a violet; they just looked like one to people back in the early 1900's. These plants soon became favoured because of its small size, free-flowering abilities, and ease of growth. This has continued for over a century as more and more people are attracted to the wide variety of cultivars now available. African violets have now become the most popular flowering indoor plant. They now come in white, blue, purple, red, and yellow colours with bicolour, ruffled, or double petals. The foliage might be green, reddish or variegated and leaf margins are sometimes finely serrated, ruffled, or lobed. To add another dimension, there are now very popular African violets that are miniature and even trailing types.

One of the keys to getting African violets to bloom is to have adequate light levels. Many gesneriads will not produce flower buds if the light intensity is not high enough. The amount of light that is present on a cloudy winter day is the minimum amount needed to produce blooms. To ensure that plants receive as much of this natural light as possible, set them in a south or south-west facing window during the winter months. They must be moved to an east or north window during the summer months because the stronger rays may cause damage to the leaves. In the summer, an alternative to a south window is to set the plants back away from the window or behind sheer drapes. Another note is that the sun's rays striking African violets from one side will cause the plant to grow lop-sided. Turn your plants one quarter of a revolution each week to
preserve their symmetry. An easier solution might be to grow African violets (and other gesneriads) under fluorescent lights. This is the only solution for gardeners who do not have south facing windows during the winter. Fluorescent lights will provide an even distribution of light and can be used with a timer to ensure that African violets get more than 12 hours of light so that they will continuously bloom.

African violets are native to an environment that is warm and humid with temperatures that do not drop below 18 degrees Celsius. Keeping temperatures around 25 during the day and five degrees lower at night will be sufficient for good growth and flowering. Dropping the temperature five degrees at night will produce larger flowers with more petals and brighter colours. The ideal humidity, between 40 and 60 percent, is often a challenge to achieve during the winter. Low humidity levels will cause leaves to curl and become crisp at the edges. Bloom quality may decline too. To help solve this problem, place a shallow tray of water near the plants so that it will evaporate and humidify the air, group plants together, or use a humidifier nearby.

Watering African violets the right way is a technique that will pay off with big flower rewards. Use room temperature water that has sat for several hours to let the gaseous water treatment chemicals leave. Water early in the day so that the plant is not excessively wet during the
night. Water as soon as the soil surface feels dry to the touch. Add enough water to the top of the pot so that it runs out the bottom and into the saucer below. Let this sit for about one hour and then drain the water from the saucer. African violet roots are susceptible to damage from
overwatering, drought, and cold water. Some gardeners insist that watering from the bottom is the correct way to water gesneriads. This can be done if careful attention is paid to the amount of time plants sit in the water. Root damage can happen fast. Watering from the top also flushes out fertilizer salts so that they do not build up in the soil.

Fertilizers for flowering indoor houseplants should have a higher phosphorous number. This is the middle number of the ratio. Fertilizing with a weak solution every time the plant is watered will provide a more constant feeding for the plant. Use one-quarter strength (or less) depending on the frequency of watering. A dormant plant that is not blooming or coming into bloom should not have any fertilizer.

African violets (and most gesneriads) should be grown in a sterilized, light soil mixture that is peat moss based. Air space in the soil is very important for healthy roots. The best pots for growing gesneriads are the ordinary plastic ones. These will hold moisture well and are light to pick up. Clay pots may accumulate salts around the rim that could damage African violet stems. African violets can stay in the same (3-4 inch) pot for years because these plants do not have an extensive root system. In time the plant, with its overhanging leaves, may seem very out of scale to the pot. When the plant is 3 times wider than the pot, it is time to move it up to the next larger sized pot. Repotting should take place in the spring. Let the plant dry out slightly so that the leaf petioles are somewhat flexible before repotting or else they may snap off.

References:
http://home.pathcom.com/aboutges.htm
http://mtl.sim.qc.ca/jardin/en/info_verte/saintpaulia/saintpaulia.htm
Reader's Digest A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants

Anne Marie Van Nest is a graduate of the Niagara Parks Commission School of Horticulture, where today she is also an instructor. Anne is a member of the Garden Writers Association of America and the garden columnist for The St. Catharines Standard.

With our gardens enveloped in a winter blanket little thought is given to how they appear for the winter months. Canadians tend to garden for six months, usually from Victoria Day to Labour Day, neglecting the remaining six months, and even though our garden chores may be limited at this time of year we can still appreciate the garden looking out from some sunny perch in the house.

As I write this article I look out upon my own garden, as interesting now as it is in full bloom during the growing season. Granted it lacks the detail that the summer garden contains but it does overcome that deficiency with 'bones' and plant maturity that the summer garden lacks.

I like to think that my garden is adventurous, with large bold plantings and masses of a favourite species. This effect is partly done to offset the scale of the Victorian house that the garden surrounds, but it is also done because of my particular fondness for plants that have strong form through a major portion of the year. Also, being a professional I tend to spend more time in other peoples gardens rather than my own; an occupational hazzard shared by many of my fellow professionals. When I come home at the end of a day the last thing I want to do is work in my own garden, but I do want to stroll around and admire and observe the subtle changes that each day brings, therefore a primary consideration when selecting plants for my own garden is their degree of maintenance; low maintenance.

My garden was then designed to be low maintenance and at times I struggle to find chores to perform, I know of no other garden that requires less care, and in fact receives it, unless of course you consider those poor souls who perceive a weekly run with the lawnmower across their lot, gardening. The bold strong forms of the plants I use also compliment the massive scale of the house and provide a long season of interest: unless we get wet heavy snow or freezing rain the show will last until I attack the garden with my weed wacker and petrol powered head shears in March. These amazing feats of gardening are accomplished by using reliable, care-free perennials, principally ornamental grass with the dominant genus being Miscanthus.

I developed an interest in ornamental grasses early in my career, growing up in England I was always amazed at the large clump of Cortaderia selloana that put forth with such exuberance each year in the neglected garden in the farmyard. I remember my father burning it to the ground every spring thinking he was trying to rid the garden of this pest, but weeks later it would rebound with the freshest sprigs of green in the garden. It was the only time my father spent in the garden, the farm chores and family demanded all of his time: to my amazement this clump of Pampas Grass towered towards the heavens by late summer thriving on total neglect. I was hooked on ornamental grass in the garden.

It wasn't until I had finished my formal training in horticulture that I then had the opportunity to experience the use of ornamental grass once more. I was hooked once again, but now it would be the bain of my professional career, since they were care free and provided a full season of interest I could not but use them at every opportunity. Of course living in town I cannot torch them each spring like my father did, they demand a little more effort, but a petrol powered head shear makes quick work of them just the same.

My favourite is Miscanthus sinensis 'Variegatus', the Variegated Silver Grass. The heavy white edges of the leaves in-filled with light grey-blue-green lend this plant a regal appearance as it graces the front approach to my house. As with most of the Miscanthus species and cultivars it is a reliable clump former and dispels the myth about not using ornamental grass because they are invasive. If I was to encourage a first-timer to plant ornamental grass this would be my first recommendation.

Miscanthus sinensis 'Strictus' is equally as regal and although the yellow variegations go across the leaves giving the appearance of large dots it still retains a degree of formality. 'Strictus' seems to bloom a little more freely that 'Variegatus' and as such has an added dimension to the late summer garden.

According to Rick Darke in his book The Color Encyclopaedia of Ornamental Grasses, he states that Miscanthus sinensis 'Morning Light' is " Arguably the best all-round garden plant of all the Miscanthus species and cultivars." I seem to have too many favorites to even attempt to decide which is the best, however I will agree that Morning Light Silver Grass is an outstanding plant. Its slender, narrow strap like leaves weep to the ground producing a finely dissected rounded clump. I have seen this particular cultivar used to full effect placed in a planter at the entrance to a large home.

Miscanthus sinensis 'Adagio' is one of those charming plants that endears itself to the gardener because of its diminutive form. It is half the size of the cultivars previously mentioned yet seems to retain all their desirable attributes. It, like 'Morning Light', has finely dissected foliage and droops to the ground. It also produces a stunning show of flowers in late summer.

I could go on and on about the different types of Miscanthus, but I was told I was limited on the amount of space the publisher would allow me, since I went to school with him he knows that I can go on for far too long on my favourite topics. Regardless, everyone should try at least one Miscanthus, even for the small urban gardens there are the dwarf species such as 'Little Dot'. They require no care, and as my own garden is testament seem to thrive on neglect. Their only requirement is a good brush cut in early spring, and an occasional feed when the mood behoves you, and of course generous doses of admiration.

Recommended Readings:

Darke, Rick. 1999. The Color Encyclopedia of Ornamental Grasses. Portland: Timber Press

Darke, Rick. 1994. Manual of Grasses. London: Macmillan Press

Oudolf, Piet. 1998. Gardening with Grasses. London: Francis Lincoln Limited

Michael Pascoe is a graduate of the Niagara Parks Commission School of Horticulture. He is the Coordinator of the landscape design program at Fanshawe College. As a landscape consultant, Michael has developed many gardens, including the award winning gardens of Cuddy Farms in Strathroy, Ontario.

The Iceman Cometh - Into the Garden!

For most gardeners, so much emphasis is placed on the 'growing' season that the cold months of winter are often overlooked. Beyond the obvious (yet important) indoor tasks of organizing the potting shed and ordering seeds, outdoors there are many ways to get more from your winter landscape.

The most common complaint of winter is that it is too cold, for too long. Although the freezing temperatures will inevitably keep us mostly indoors, mild spells always create incredible optimism. This is when that urge to get outside and work arises, and it's the perfect time to practice a few lesser known cold season activities.

The middle of winter is the best time to transplant most trees and shrubs (not broad-leaf evergreens). You must plan for this, however, by mulching the plant being moved as well as the new location. This helps to minimize frost penetration into the ground, which if too severe will make digging extremely difficult or even impossible. Use a generous layer of shredded bark mulch (6-8") and be sure to exceed the size of the holes required for digging. Remember to also cover the newly planted tree. Not only will your transplant rate be high, you will get an early jump on the busy spring.

Pruning can also be done in late winter. This is an ideal time to remove dead, diseased and interfering wood. Pruning in late fall or early winter is not advisable as it can result in winter injury, where severe cold can damage fresh cuts and ultimately kill branches. Be aware that if you are pruning a spring flowering tree or shrub you will likely be removing dormant flower buds, so you may be advised to wait until after blooming.

Another unpopular winter characteristic is short day length. For those who work away from home and leave early in the morning only to return again after dark, the only chance they have to see their garden is on weekends or holidays. To help shed some light on this dark season, literally, consider the benefits of installing landscape lighting. Instead of looking at dark windows or curtains, you can enjoy the garden and the beautiful effects that highlighting plants can create. Ornamental grasses look wonderful when lit from below. Light also accentuates branching structure, needles and leaves. If you add the bonus effect of snow and/or ice, the results can be spectacular.

A fresh blanket of snow can transform a garden overnight. It makes a dull and lifeless-looking lawn into a perfect white carpet. If the conditions are right, it can collect on bare plants and give the garden a fullness not seen since early autumn. Herbaceous perennials left uncut will also take on a dynamic new look. Not only do these stems and seeds look attractive to us, but they also attract and collect blowing snow, which is the finest insulation available to protect plantings from severe cold and extreme temperature fluctuations.

For those cold and damp days without sunshine or snow, subtlety is everything. Take for example, the winter-blooming flowers of the multi-stemmed shrub Witchhazel (Hamamelis x intermedia). These relatively small, thin-petalled, yellow flowers can make a significant impact at this quiet time in the garden. During a mild winter here, in Niagara, a few years back, the cultivar 'Arnold Promise' began blooming in the second week of January and lasted until March.

As flowers are quite rare in our winters, it is essential to look beyond blooms to other interesting plant qualities. Consider the beauty of bark. The following three shrubs have colorful bark and are best used in mass. The Redosier Dogwood (Cornus sericea) displays vibrant red stems. The Osier cultivar 'Flaviramea' is bright yellow and both are hardy to Zone 2. Kerria japonica has attractive and lively lime-green stems.

Many trees exhibit bark qualities that are of special interest now. The rich exfoliating bark of Chinese Dogwood (Cornus kousa), Persian Parrotia (Parrotia persica) and Lace-bark Pine (Pinus bungeana) are but a few that come to mind. The shiny, reddish, papery bark of Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum) is a personal favorite. Some of these trees require some maturity before they exhibit these qualities, so enjoy the wait.

Finally, consider placing a focal point into the garden. This should be something that can be seen from a favorite window within the house. It could be a sculptural piece, an obelisk or even something whimsical. A bird feeder near the breakfast table window can provide terrific entertainment. Locate a permanent bench near the backdoor, something that will stay out all year. When that warm spell comes and you want to sip on your coffee outside, you won't have the hassle of dragging the lawn furniture out of the garage (which you're not likely to do anyway!).

Enjoy the winter garden and enlighten your hibernating gardener friends to make the most of this underrated season.

Darren Schmahl is a Niagara Parks School of Horticulture graduate that attended John Brookes' School of Garden Design in England. He has been designing gardens for over 15 years, including The Copper Leaf courtyard and the plantings of Jordan's Main Street.

A rewarding pastime for gardeners during the winter months has always been watching the birds "tweet" themselves on seeds that you've provided. Once a few birds have stopped off in your yard, the word will get out. As long as you keep the feeder filled with seed, the visiting bird population will grow.

This chickadee spike feeder holds a suet or seed ball. Chickadees as well as blue jays, woodpeckers, finches and many other types of birds will dine at this feeder. During the summer months place half an orange on the spike to attract orioles. When placed in a spot some distance from a tree or fence, it is impossible for the squirrels to scamper up to steal a meal.

The spike is also attractive holding a candle during outdoor celebrations. The feeder stands 5 feet tall and has a fork at the bottom for secure anchorage.

Chickadee Spike Feeder $40.00.

Laura Yates is a graduate of the horticultural program at Niagara College and is a staff horticulturist at The Copper Leaf.