IN THIS ISSUE: Perennials that Bloom like Annuals Summer Jobs... And Some are Fun!
Bubbler Rocks Readers Q & A

Mother Nature has sure brought us a little bit of everything this spring - hot and cold, wet and dry! A big improvement over the steady downpours we experienced last spring. Generally, it's been a pretty good season for growing so far. I hope your garden is growing right along, and that this issue of In Leaf will help keep it that way.

As you may already be aware, our Manager, Laura Yates will be married in July and moving to Kitchener. Laura's last day at The Copper Leaf will be Friday, June 22. Laura has become a familiar and friendly face at the store since 1998, and she will be greatly missed by both our staff and customers. I would like to take this opportunity to thank Laura for her tremendous contribution and wish her all the best in the future.

Tickets are still available for our summer calendar events. On Sunday, June 24 join Nik Manojlovich, host of Savoir Faire on HGTV, as he shares innovative ideas for garden parties and summer entertaining that will have your guests begging for more! On Saturday, July 21 Darren will cover the subject of "Ornamental Vines for the Garden". Ken Beattie, host of WTN's Get Growing, will be in town for two special events. On Saturday, August 11 he will lead a tour of The Niagara Parks Botanical Gardens, including horticultural demonstrations and lunch at On-the-Twenty Restaurant (tour, transportation and lunch are all provided). On Sunday, August 12 Ken will discuss how townhouses, condos and smaller gardens are a delight to landscape in a lecture entitled "The Intimate Garden". After his presentation, Ken will be available at the store to sign copies of his latest book, Trowel Tips. For more details on these and other upcoming Copper Leaf events visit our 2001 calendar page.

In this issue: Anne recommends some prolific blooming perennials; Margaret Nevett, our guest gardener and good friend of The Copper Leaf, shares some valuable summer maintenance tips; Laura explains bubbler rock water features and our staff horticulturists answer a question on a really interesting plant called Arum.

Please keep sending your comments, suggestions and questions. We love to hear from you and we're always available at gardeners@thecopperleaf.com.

Sincerely,

Michael Schmahl
Editor-In-Leaf

The best of both worlds! That's what gardeners are getting when they select perennials that have long-blooming tendencies. What can be better than a group of hardy plants that starts blooming in June (or July) and doesn't stop for months? Some keep going and don't quit until the snow flies. Perennials that bloom like annuals certainly are a good value for their investment. Here's some long-blooming plants to consider for the perennial garden.

Campanula x 'Birch Hybrid' (Bellflower)
A perfect plant for a rock garden, this campanula only grows to 10 cm in height but it spreads to 50 cm in width. The plant is covered with large, 2 cm, upward-facing, purple-blue flowers from June to September. This is not an invasive plant and can be used to tumble over a retaining wall.

Campanula carpatica 'Blue Clips' and 'White Clips' (Carpathian Bellflower)
This bellflower is a clump-forming perennial that forms a neat 30 cm mound. From June through September, the blue or white cup shaped flowers cover this edging plant. A low maintenance plant that gives much more than it receives.

Campanula lactiflora cultivars (Milky Bellflower)
Many cultivars are available with flower colours from white to lilac-pink and dark violet-blue. This plant also self-seeds and will produce offspring that are not the same as the original plant. Grow this bellflower in partial shade with cool, moist soil conditions. Milky bellflower has large clusters of bell flowers from June to September. Often the plant will grow to 1 metre and may need staking. Shorter cultivars such as 'Pouffe' and 'White Pouffe' will only reach 25 cm.

Clematis tangutica (Golden Clematis)
This tough, durable clematis is a versatile plant in the garden. It can be easily grown as a ground cover and allowed to ramble over a 6 m by 3 m area. The more traditional use for this clematis is to grow it up and over an arbour. It can also be used to grow through tall shrubs or small trees. The bright yellow bell-shaped flowers are very attractive from July to September. In early fall, the later blooming flowers will be present with large, puffy seed pods. This clematis is tolerant of poor soil and has excellent hardiness (zone 2). It is also suitable for full sun or partial shade sites.

Coreopsis verticillata cultivars (Thread-leaved Tickseed)
A very reliable perennial that will bloom from June to September. A tough plant that can withstand drought, full sun, cold temperatures (to zone 3) and continues blooming. The single, yellow daisy flowers cover this border plant. 'Moonbeam' with its lemon yellow flowers has been rated one of the all time best perennials.

Corydalis lutea (Golden Corydalis)
A loveable plant that tucks itself into the most inhospitable places (usually in the crevices of a vertical surface of a wall garden). This plant is very adaptable and can grow in full sun or partial shade in fertile, well-drained, and moist soil. It will self-seed if grown in a partially shaded cool site. The foliage is an attractive fern-like shape and the blooms a cheery golden yellow. This plant has a very long blooming time (May to October) and is hardy to zone 4.

Echinacea purpurea 'Magnus' or 'White Swan'
Very reliable, tough and much loved. This perennial is a mainstay of the perennial garden. It is tolerant of heat, drought, and poor soil - yet blooms from July through September anyway. A great butterfly attracting plant for the garden. Hardy to zone 3 and growing to just under 1 metre. Numerous cultivars vary from white to purple-red colours.

Echinops ritro (Globe Thistle)
An unusual look for the garden. Globe thistle has metallic-blue spiky balls that give the plant a very exotic look. Very dramatic in foliage or leaf. Ideal for the middle of a sunny, hot, dry border. Globe thistle blooms from June to September. It may self-seed unless it is deadheaded. Very tolerant of any soil in full sun or partial shade.

Gaillardia x grandiflora 'Burgundy' or 'Dwarf Goblin' (Blanket Flower)
A tough perennial that can withstand hot and dry conditions including an ability to be very drought tolerant. This plant blooms so long that it may become in danger of blooming itself into oblivion if allowed. So cut it back in September to build up energy reserves. A good butterfly attractant plant. Many cultivars are available that are between 30 and 60 cm tall in colours that include maroon, yellow, wine-red, orange-red, or red.

Gaura lindheimeri 'Whirling Butterflies' (Butterfly Gaura)
A plant with delightful airy blooms on long (60 cm), thin stalks. The wind moves these whitish-pink blooms around like fluttering butterflies. Gaura flowers for a long time from June and into September. The plant is hardy to zone 5 and grows well in sun or part shade. Tuck this plant behind a lower, border plant for a great effect as the blooms dance around in the garden.

Geranium 'Ann Folkard' (Perennial Geranium)
A tough, low maintenance beautiful perennial. The chartreuse yellow leaves are exquisite with the magenta flowers. A plant with a huge impact that is long blooming too (June to September). This geranium has low horizontal branches that spread to about 1 metre as it weaves in an around other plants. The overall height is only
20-30 cm making this a good border plant. Hardy to zone 4.

Helenium autumnale hybrids (Fall Helenium)
Many cultivars are available in bright vivid yellow, orange, gold or red daisy-like flowers. These durable perennials bloom during the hottest months from July to September if they have adequate moisture. Plant them in the middle or back of a border so that they can reach their full height without obstruction. Fall helenium is hardy to zone 3.

Heliopsis helianthoides 'Loraine Sunshine' (False Sunflower)
A very unusual plant from Blooms of Bressingham that has unique variegated foliage. The leaves are entirely silver except for dark green veins. Large golden-yellow daisy-shaped flowers accent the plant from June to October. At maturity this plant can reach 75 cm tall and prefers full sun conditions.

Kniphofia hybrids (Red Hot Poker)
The foliage of this plant resembles a long narrow yucca leaf. The most attractive feature of this plant are the brilliant yellow, orange or red blooms. Some cultivars have all 3 colours on each flowering spike. The tubular flowers often attract hummingbirds as a source of nectar. The blooms are great accents in the perennial border from July (some cultivars start blooming in June) to September or October. Plants need full sun and a rich, well-drained soil. It does not like to have wet feet in the winter and may perish if too wet. The heights vary from 60 to 100 cm depending on the cultivar.

Lobelia cardinalis (Cardinal Flower)
The bright red blooms of cardinal flowers are loved by gardeners and hummingbirds alike. This is a native wildflower that is happiest growing in a moist site along side a stream. Will self-seed and form an attractive colony over time. For best results, plant in full sun to partial shade, moist sites.

Lobelia x speciosa (Hybrid Cardinal Flower)
A cardinal flower look-alike but available in a wider colour range which includes blue, deep red, orchid rose, or scarlet.

Lysimachia clethroides (Gooseneck Loosestrife)
Distinctive white spikes form from July to September at the top of the plant. The flower spike nods at the end to look like a gooseneck. A different twist on flower form for the sunny perennial garden. Best in a moist site (similar to Lobelia cardinalis). Gooseneck loosestrife could become aggressive once established. Ultimately each plant is 60-90 cm tall and wide.

Nepeta x 'Dropmore Blue' (Catmint)
A useful plant that is great for the edge of borders and needs little care. The dense, gray-green foliage is tolerant of heat and humidity. Masses of blue flowers reach 30 cm and continue from June to September making an attractive display.

Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage)
A favourite in the perennial or shrub border. The fine gray-green foliage is a great texture change when considering the "typical" perennial. The spikes of lavender blue flowes create a hazy effect when viewed from a distance. A wonderful middle of the border plant to contrast with many coarse textured dark green plants. Blooms from July to September and very tolerant of hot and dry sites. Look for a new shorter cultivar that was introduced last year and a filigree foliage type. Plant in the sun where there is good soil drainage especially in the winter.

Physostegia virginiana cultivars (Obedient Plant)
A fun plant that has a tendency to encroach on other plants if not contained. Several cultivars with white, pink and variegated leaves add to the diversity of this plant. The flowers on the upright spikes can be moved and they will stay obediently in this position. Good performance in full sun or partially shaded locations. The flower spikes grow to reach 60 cm tall. Extensive blooms from July through September.

Rudbeckia hirta (Gloriosa Daisy)
The traditional late summer plant for the perennial border! Hardy to zone 5 but often treated as a self-seeding biennial. A glorious display of blooms from July to frost. Lots of cultivars from which to choose a desired height, flower colour and flower form. Colours vary between yellow, orange, bronze and mahogany in single or double flowers.

Scabiosa columbaria 'Butterfly Blue' (Pincushion Flower)
Hardy to zone 3, this plant really blooms all season long (June to September) with masses of lavender blue, round, pincushion flowers. Plant it in full sun for best flowering results and watch the butterflies find the flowers hard to resist. Perennial plant of the year in 2000.

Anne Marie Van Nest is a graduate of the Niagara Parks Commission School of Horticulture, where today she is also an instructor. Anne is a member of the Garden Writers Association of America and the garden columnist for The St. Catharines Standard.

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It is Summer and I'm still thinking I might plant something more in my garden. I know there really isn't room, but I look at the suffering plants in the nurseries and want to bring them home. Sometimes I resist.

Summer is the most fun time in your garden. "Light" work is allowed. Those good garden making procedures that you performed in the spring are now paying off. All that digging, soil amending, moving, dividing and planting helped to get you and your garden in shape for the summer. The hard work and extra time you spent in spring, now allows time for sitting in the shade with a cold drink, to observe!

Although it's never too late to add a few more late bloomers or perhaps some annuals for extra colour, summer is not the time to make major design changes. The best answer to new ideas is a notebook. Make notes, take pictures and plan your moves for later, when the time is right. It might help to make note of the spring jobs that you wish you had done. Next year, you'll remember to stake the peony and poppy early. Pictures, notes, clippings, drawings - images and dreams to add to your garden. And now is a good time to visit other people's gardens. When your planting is done and others open their garden gate, you'll find plenty of new ideas and plants to try next year.

Watering is one of the most important jobs throughout the summer. Depending on Mother Nature, watering can definitely become a demanding summer job. There is nothing more relaxing at the end of a stressful day, than to linger over your garden with a drink in one hand and the watering wand in the other. That's OK if you have a very small garden and containers, but unless you have the patience to stand for a long time in one place, then you are likely not delivering enough water to sink down deep into the soil to help your plants develop efficient roots.

A more practical approach for larger gardens and lawns is overhead watering. Choose your watering time carefully to avoid evaporation to wind and sun. Early morning stillness is a perfect time to deliver an overhead "rain". This elevated delivery of water covers a larger area effectively. Soaker hoses can be used to seep water directly into the soil at any time of day. They are easy to install and can be covered with mulch. As a rule of thumb, water deeply, infrequently! Lawns, annuals and new perennials will require the most water.

While you are watering your garden, be on the lookout for pests that damage the garden. Insects and diseases may not warrant control but should be watched. Aim for balance. You can reduce an insect problem by using a strong spray of water to simply knock them off. Some plants that are suffering from a disease infestation may require a "hard" cutting back. This is best done before the middle of summer to clean up the plant and give it a chance to recover. To keep your plants healthy and disease resistant, keep feeding the soil. Topdress around perennials with compost or well-rotted manure. And don't forget to feed those annuals that you purposely overcrowded into a pot for instant impact. Use a weak solution of a soluble fertilizer regularly. Always water your container first to wet the rootball and then add the fertilizer solution.

Lawns can be less work if you keep the grass long (2½ to 3½ inches) and the edge neat. Perhaps you can lower your expectations of what green plants make up your lawn. Hand dig your weeds after a good watering or rain.

Weeding the garden beds could be a "light" job if you did an excellent weeding in the spring and then applied a thick mulch to any exposed soil. By now plants have grown and shaded out the area around their base. Editing the new growth in your garden requires you to get to know the desirable volunteers (relatives of plants you grow in your garden) and the weeds, so that you can decide which ones to nurture and which ones to pull.

Deadheading, pruning and shaping become an art throughout the summer. As you get to know your plants you'll see the benefit of a helping hand to remove a spent bloom or an over-enthusiastic spurt of growth. Mostly this is work that does not require you to get your knees or gloves dirty. Deadheading depends on what you are growing of course. Many plants will need grooming in mid summer to keep them looking pretty and producing continuous bloom. Cut back stems of individual flowers to encourage continued production from buds lower down. To deadhead clustered flowers on one stem, wait until the blooms are finished and remove the whole stem. Try to conceal your cuts within the foliage. Spike-type flowers should be deadheaded when there is more seed pod than flower left on the spike. If the spike is snipped off before mid-July the plant may produce side shoots to continue the bloom on a smaller scale. This attention to deadheading will improve the overall look of the foliage of your plants. Deadheading self-seeders will also reduce your weeding time.

Try pinching back late summer bloomers to produce bushier plants with later bloom. This can be done up until about mid July. Some plants should be left alone so they can form seeds. A garden that is too neat may not attract birds. Select some plants to create seedheads for winter interest and food for wildlife. Short lived perennials or biennials should be allowed to set seed to keep the population going.

As the jobs get easier and the summer fun continues, my journal expands and the wish list grows. I'm already planning for next year. Garden making is never done!

Margaret Nevett, a Master Gardener in Toronto, gardens in what is now a shady back yard garden in "The Beaches". She is currently working as a Segment Producer on HGTV's "Calling All Gardeners". Combining her two loves - television production and horticulture, she continues to develop good garden making ideas.

 

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Low maintenance... one of the most popular phrases in horticulture today. Ponds, water, fountains... also very popular trends in gardening right now. The problem is that water features and low maintenance usually don't go together. Until now, that is! The solution... a bubbler rock!

A bubbler rock is a natural rock that is drilled in order to fit a tube through the middle of the stone, from the bottom to the top. With a self-contained reservoir of water sitting under the rock, a simple recirculating pump pushes the water from below through the rock, where it bubbles at the top before falling over and back into the reservoir. The result of this recycling system is the relaxing sound of water, a beautiful natural-looking focal point, and a virtually maintenance-free water feature that can be enjoyed indoors or out.

Without plant life or fish, concerns such as the pH of your water are lessened. The algae which inevitably grows, makes the feature look even more natural and is not something that we recommend removing. With a reservoir deep enough (about 3 feet deep) your rock can even continue to bubble on into the winter. To fill the reservoir initially, a garden hose is required. Topping the reservoir up with water occasionally (about once a month during the summer) is the only maintenance required. A simple electrical outlet is all that is needed to run the pump.

Stop in and see the selection of bubbler rocks we have on display at The Copper Leaf. No two are alike. Indoor rocks range from $25 to $90 (pumps not included). Outdoor rocks range from $100 to $500 (pumps not included).

Listen to the music of water... watch the birds visit... relax and enjoy your bubbler rock!

Laura Yates is a graduate of the horticultural program at Niagara College and is a staff horticulturist at The Copper Leaf.