IN THIS ISSUE: Sun and Shadows in the Garden
Foxgloves - Changing The Feel of Gardening Reader's Q & A

Will this winter ever end? Call me a complainer - that's OK! It's been way too cold for my liking. Too much snow as well - and it's not just me! All of us at The Copper Leaf have been counting down to spring since the first of December.

Our Calendar of Events is all set for 2003 with another nice mix of hands-on workshops and lectures. This annual program is highlighted by the Great Garden Getaway on March 28th through 30th. This wonderful weekend escape at Inn-on-the-Twenty features Marjorie Harris, Mike Pascoe, John Valleau and Darren Schmahl - great food and wine; great people and gardens! Click on the above links for more details.

March 12th, the opening day for Canada Blooms, is quickly approaching. This year's theme is ‘A Symphony of Gardens' and you'll find The Copper Leaf at booth #706. If you haven't been to this fabulous show before - there is simply no better place to get an early dose of spring. We can't wait!

In this issue of In Leaf, Anne enlightens us on sun and shade in the garden, and the store profiles an exciting new garden glove. We also answer a reader's question regarding Curly Willow in our popular Grow & Tell segment.

Michael Schmahl
Editor-In-Leaf

After hardiness ratings, one of the most important factors to consider when choosing plants is the amount of sun exposure they can tolerate. Placing a plant in light conditions that are outside their ideal range will likely cause stress and could in extreme cases cause death. Overcoming the challenges of sun and shade conditions in a garden takes a little observation and consideration for the amount and intensity of light striking plants. Matching plants to light levels will go a long way toward creating a successful garden plan. Taking time to see the light of a garden is very worthwhile.

The most straightforward category of sun exposure is that which is universally called “full sun”. Plants that fit into this category are those that can be grown in the garden where the full intensity of the sun is present. The standard measurement for full sun conditions is a site that has at least six hours of strong light per day. Understandably, these should be the hours immediately before and after 12 pm. This is true, particularly around the summer solstice on June 21st. What is not usually considered is the intensity of these six hours during other times of the year. Given that the most intense sunlight occurs mostly in the afternoon (with a little in the late morning), shadows during these hours have a big effect on how much light plants receive. Six hours of direct sun during the morning is very different from the same six hours in the afternoon. Morning sun, even if it is six hours worth of direct sun is still not strong enough to be considered anything more than partial sun (or part shade). A garden with predominantly late afternoon and evening sunlight should also be considered as receiving partial sun.

Most gardens that have a good, unobstructed dose of afternoon sun do fall into the full sun category. The afternoon sun has a stronger intensity which makes it more powerful.

The intensity of the sun does vary according to geographic location. An afternoon of full sun in Kenora is not the same as an afternoon of full sun in Niagara. In this case, a distance of 1965 km (1220 miles) separates the two locations and has an effect on the intensity of light. Plants that might not tolerate full sun in Niagara could be very happy in Kenora without any protection. This opens up the palette of plants able to be grown. Full sun garden conditions already have by far the largest number of plants available for selection.

Most people can quite confidently identify the full sun conditions in their garden. Things get really “grey” once a little (or a lot of shade) comes into play. Even less defined is the ultimate level of sun (or shade) that is required by an individual plant. Like other aspects of gardening, many factors affect how well a plant will grow.

Shade is the most varied of all the plant growing areas. Deciding on the amount of shade in a garden is a fairly subjective activity fraught with much debate. Light levels in the garden can vary from partial shade to filtered light or dappled light to dense shade. There is a wide range of variances that could be present. Shade should not be considered a hardship or liability. A little shade can benefit those plants that can’t tolerate the full intensity of the suns’ rays. A very effective garden can be created in significant shade. Shade cast from plants changes over time. As overhead trees mature and grow denser, light levels reaching plants on the ground floor become weaker. Shade from overhead trees and shrubs can be altered to a certain extent by removing lower branches (called limbing up) or by selective removing overhead limbs (called crown thinning) to let in more light. Removing limbs from mature trees should be done with caution as every one is a food producing factory for the plant.

Partial sun (or part shade) groups of plants usually have to have some protection from the most intense sunlight or at least limited hours in full sun. Some arbitrary levels must be defined if part shade conditions are to be addressed. The Thompson & Morgan seed catalogue identifies partial shade as three to five hours of direct sun or protection from the hottest part of the day. They list Fuchsia and ferns in this category. Many plants fit into this category or share it with full sun.

Many plants grow their best in partial sun (or part shade). In this situation, temperatures are moderated slightly and relief from the blazing sun is present for part of the day. Flowers can last longer and colours often are more intense in part shade locations. Filtered light during the most intense time of the day (11 to 2 pm) is much more beneficial than any other time of the day. Bright light (not direct sun) during mid-day often produces a better garden than full sun in the morning or late afternoon. It is the intensity of this mid-day light that has the most impact on the growth of plants. Reflected light from a building or water feature can also be included as part of the light received by a plant in this category.

Filtered (or dappled) light sites most often fall into the part shade category (depending on the number of hours of direct sun and the time of day that it is received). Filtered shade is often created by tall overhead trees that let a good amount of bright light down to ground level. This is the most preferred type of shade for many plants.

The Thompson & Morgan seed catalogue identifies the full shade category as a site where less than two hours of direct sun are received. Some people also include a separate category for dense shade that receives no light and is too dark to successfully grow most shade-tolerant plants. An extremely small list of plants fit into this category.

Tracking shade in the garden means considering more than just overhead plants. Buildings, fences and arbors also cast their own shadow patterns. Many north-facing gardens, close to a house, garage, fence or taller trees, will receive very little direct sunlight. The shadows cast by these sun-blockers will vary according to the season. Spring and fall will see much longer shadows on the north side than during mid-summer when the sun is mostly overhead. Most often these types of gardens are cool, shady and damp. Part to full shade-tolerant plants are best for this site. South-facing gardens as a contrast receive lots of sun. West-facing gardens mainly are subjected to afternoon sun and east-facing gardens only receive morning sun.

Shadow patterns change with the season as the sun makes a slow progression changing its angle overhead. The 23.5 degree tilt of the earth on its axis accounts for this change in shadow patterns. In Southern Ontario the angle of the sun changes from 25 degrees in December to 65 degrees in June. This creates significant shadow changes throughout the season. A sun shadow analysis is required to determine the extent of the shadows during different times of the year (and times of the day). Casual observation should be sufficient to analyze shadows for most garden sites, but trigonometry can also be used. Shadows lengthening during the spring, winter and fall may have a significant impact on the plans for plants in parts of the garden. An easy way to determine where shadows fall during the summer is to stake the edge of the shadow during the morning and late in the afternoon, comparing the difference.

Too much sun exposure can lead to stressed plants that may become stunted or scorched. Flower and foliage colours may be bleached (or sunburned) white. On the contrary, too much shade can produce spindly, weak plants that many need staking and often struggle for growth.

There is a way to change the sun and shade rules. Often plants that are being grown in the more northern limits of their hardiness range can be grown in more sun exposure than if they are grown in more southern sites. Extra shade (particularly during mid-day) will counter the increased intensity of the sun in more southern locations, offering protection.

Working with full sun and partial shade conditions means that plants can be selected to fit the best exposure site. Generally blooms, coloured foliage or coloured twigs are best grown where the sun can intensify their attractive features. If plants are showing that they are in stressful growing conditions then move them into a slightly shadier site.

Some perennials that are best suited for full sun conditions can still grow and bloom in partial shade. In response, the plant could have fewer blooms, less intense flower colours, a greener foliage colour, and have a less compact form as it stretches for the light.

The duration and intensity of the sun (or conversely the amount of shade) is an important consideration when planning a garden. Look to the sun and follow its path through your garden to find the answers. Matching the right exposure to a plants needs can be an important way to create a healthy garden.

Anne Marie Van Nest is a graduate of the Niagara Parks Commission School of Horticulture, where today she is also an instructor.
Anne is a member of the Garden Writers Association of America and the garden columnist for The St. Catharines Standard.

Foxgloves - Changing The Feel of Gardening

Designed by a professional horticulturist, Foxgloves' use of modern fabrics allows complete dexterity while protecting nails, hands and wrists. Made from a combination of tough, long lasting nylon and form-fitting spandex, they really help make gardening work a joy. So many gloves on the market are bulky and restrictive, but Foxgloves offer a comfortably snug fit without compromising movement, giving you the touch and feel required for those sensitive gardening tasks.

Foxgloves are durable and abrasion resistant, which makes them suitable for tough tasks as well, and the machine washable fabric ensures long lasting wear. Visit The Copper Leaf Garden Store at Canada Blooms (booth #706) from March 12th through 16th and try the soft feel and close fit of Foxgloves for yourself.

Foxgloves come in a variety of colors and sizes at a price of $35.00 a pair.